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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.